Abstract
This paper traces the historical development of Korean apparel suppliers, particularly the rise of first-tier suppliers (FTSs). Using two leading FTS cases, we examine their paths to expanding international presence, especially in Asia, to become large multinationals. Particular attention is paid to the development of these FTSs during the post-global financial crisis era. The small set of Korean FTSs has rapidly grown as partners handling environmental complexity. We investigate whether they now take a strategic position in the reconfigured apparel global value chains and examine their responses to labour issues to ponder what their upgrading implies for labour.